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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.